Produced from vines that are up to 80-years-old and now organic, this concentrated wood-aged wine is perfumed, rich and firmly structured. Dark tannins line the wine supporting the black plum and cherry fruits and acidity. Richard Rottiers, new on the scene in 2007, created a cru that is going to be a very fine wine. Drink from 2018. ROGER VOSS

017 JEAN PAUL BRUN TERRES DOREES “L’ANCIEN” VIELLES VIGNES BEAUJOLAIS, FRANCE.100% Gamay.

Pure, delicious unadulterated Beaujolais, made wine indigenous yeast and minimal sulfur. This is Gamay as it is meant to be. Jean Paul Brun is a leader in the movement towards minimal intervention winemaking in Beaujolais. “L’Ancienne” is so-named because it comes from 80 year-old vines, planted to clay and limestone soils. All the fruit is hand-harvested, de-stemmed, then fermented and aged in concrete vats. The result is a bright-fruited and fresh Gamay with crunchy red fruits and mineral underpinnings. In short, a joy to drink. About: Jean Paul Brun is located in Charnay, a village in the Southern Beaujolais just north of Lyons, in a beautiful area known as the “Region of Golden Stones”. Brun is the owner and winemaker at this 40-acre family estate and has attracted the attention of the French and American press for the wonderfully fruity and delicate wines he produces.